I am writing this in mid-air from RAF Mount Pleasant, the
large air base in the Falkland Islands, to the Cape Verde Islands. It was a marvelous expedition: 2 days in the
air on the way from Aberdeen to Punta Arenas, Chile, almost 4 days stuck there,
then 6 weeks in Antarctica and 5 days in the Falklands on the way home (which
will take almost 3 days to reach Aberdeen) – 8 weeks minus 2 days in total! The aircraft on this route is an Airbus Voyager, a military version of the A330 - a combined tanker, cargo, passenger and medevac aircraft which is capable of in-flight refueling of fighter jets (that's how the RAF transfers Tornadoes and Typhoons to the Falklands and back to the UK). Today's stopover is in Sal Island, the major airport in the Cape Verde Islands - this is because the runway of the airbase in Ascension Island, the traditional stopover on this route, is currently closed for repairs.
Time to reflect! Scientifically, the main objective was
accomplished – we managed to start the sampling of representative Antarctic
seaweed species, monthly samples of which will be investigated by
transcriptomics and metabolomics. Aurelia is now trained and “up to speed” to
continue this work autonomously after my departure, over the next 14 months. An
unexpected finding was that by Simon Morley of the hitherto-unreported
Desmarestia. Follow-up work in Aberdeen, including DNA sequencing, will reveal whether this is a new record of a species known from somewhere else for this part of Antarctica, a hitherto-unrecognized life cycle stage of a known taxon, or a new species to science.
My time in the Falklands was spent visiting my 2 PhD students, Emma Beaton at the South Atlantic Environmental Research Institute (SAERI) and Jessica Jones at the Falkland Islands Government Fisheries Department, and my numerous friends and colleagues in the islands's capital, Stanley, including the SAERI Director, Paul Brickle, and Sasha Arkhipkin at the Falkland Islands Government Fisheries Department. Emma works on intertidal ecology and seaweed biodiversity of the Falklands, while Jessica studies the biology of squid in the Southern Ocean - a major resource for the Falklands. Arriving at the B&B of my long-time friend Kay McCallum felt like coming back to a good old home! The 5 days in the Falklands had some of the best summer weather that the islands can offer. I enjoyed an afternoon at the Magellanic penguin colony at Gypsy Cove, and I was very lucky to get an invitation to get an invitation from Marina Costa (SAERI) and Stevie Cartwright (Shallow Marine Surveys Group) to participate in a boat-based, 1-day cetacean survey around Stanley. We saw a sei whale (yet too far away to get good photos) and then numerous Peale's dolphins and then finally also Commerson's dolphins. The Peale's dolphins were mostly around Cape Pembroke - they were very playful and inquisitive and kept coming in pods to our boat - and jumping in the air as if they wanted to show off for us! Finally, we saw 2 pods of Commerson's dolphins in the interior of the large bay, Stanley Harbour - one of them had a newborn calf!
I feel incredibly lucky and privileged having this kind of experiences (and the main reason for having this illustrated blog is to share them). Of course, I am well aware that especially when visiting places like Antarctica and the Falklands, I may never be able to come back. I had these thoughts during my first trip to Antarctica in 2010-2011 - and I feel very lucky and grateful to be given this opportunity a second time.
This is the conclusion of my Antarctic voyage - if you have enjoyed following my explorations and adventures, I would be delighted to hear from you. Thank you for following me to the cold, far side of our home planet.
(Feb. 5)
(Feb. 8)
My time in the Falklands was spent visiting my 2 PhD students, Emma Beaton at the South Atlantic Environmental Research Institute (SAERI) and Jessica Jones at the Falkland Islands Government Fisheries Department, and my numerous friends and colleagues in the islands's capital, Stanley, including the SAERI Director, Paul Brickle, and Sasha Arkhipkin at the Falkland Islands Government Fisheries Department. Emma works on intertidal ecology and seaweed biodiversity of the Falklands, while Jessica studies the biology of squid in the Southern Ocean - a major resource for the Falklands. Arriving at the B&B of my long-time friend Kay McCallum felt like coming back to a good old home! The 5 days in the Falklands had some of the best summer weather that the islands can offer. I enjoyed an afternoon at the Magellanic penguin colony at Gypsy Cove, and I was very lucky to get an invitation to get an invitation from Marina Costa (SAERI) and Stevie Cartwright (Shallow Marine Surveys Group) to participate in a boat-based, 1-day cetacean survey around Stanley. We saw a sei whale (yet too far away to get good photos) and then numerous Peale's dolphins and then finally also Commerson's dolphins. The Peale's dolphins were mostly around Cape Pembroke - they were very playful and inquisitive and kept coming in pods to our boat - and jumping in the air as if they wanted to show off for us! Finally, we saw 2 pods of Commerson's dolphins in the interior of the large bay, Stanley Harbour - one of them had a newborn calf!
I feel incredibly lucky and privileged having this kind of experiences (and the main reason for having this illustrated blog is to share them). Of course, I am well aware that especially when visiting places like Antarctica and the Falklands, I may never be able to come back. I had these thoughts during my first trip to Antarctica in 2010-2011 - and I feel very lucky and grateful to be given this opportunity a second time.
This is the conclusion of my Antarctic voyage - if you have enjoyed following my explorations and adventures, I would be delighted to hear from you. Thank you for following me to the cold, far side of our home planet.
(Click on the images for a full-screen, high-resolution view.
You can browse by using the cursor buttons.)
You can browse by using the cursor buttons.)
(Feb. 5)
One of the first views of the Falkland Islands - Bertha's Beach (south of RAF Mt. Pleasant)
Typical Falklands scenery from the air, with the road from Stanley to RAF Mt. Pleasant, and the airbase in the upper center of the image
Landed at RAF Mt. Pleasant
(Feb. 6)
Kay McCallum's famous gnome garden, one of Stanley's landmarks
The hedgehog is my addition to Kay McCallum's famous gnome garden on the occasion of this trip
The
crews of Royal Navy vessels have the tradition of leaving the names of
their ships on the hillside on the north shore of Stanley. This one is
the HMS Protector - the same vessel (or its predecesor with the same
name) that supplied Rothera while I was there.
Likewise, HMS Beagle (the ship of Darwin's epic expedition) called here - Darwin visited the Falklands twice on his trip
Typical scenery in Stanley, Falkland Islands
(Feb. 7)
Magellanic penguins in Yorke Bay east of Stanley
Magellanic penguins in Yorke Bay east of Stanley
Magellanic penguins in Yorke Bay east of Stanley
Magellanic penguins in Yorke Bay east of Stanley
Magellanic penguins in Gypsy Cove east of Stanley
Magellanic penguins in Gypsy Cove east of Stanley
Magellanic penguins in Gypsy Cove east of Stanley
Gypsy Cove east of Stanley
Gypsy Cove east of Stanley
Magellanic penguins in Gypsy Cove east of Stanley
Magellanic penguins in Gypsy Cove east of Stanley
Coastal defense gun from WW I overlooking Gypsy Cove (when there was a risk of a German attack on the Falklands!)
Magellanic penguins in Gypsy Cove east of Stanley
Souvenirs from Argentina 1982
Magellanic penguins in Gypsy Cove east of Stanley
Magellanic penguins in Gypsy Cove east of Stanley
Magellanic penguins in Gypsy Cove east of Stanley
Magellanic penguins in Gypsy Cove east of Stanley
Magellanic penguins in Gypsy Cove east of Stanley
Magellanic penguins in Yorke Bay east of Stanley
Magellanic penguins in Yorke Bay east of Stanley
Magellanic penguins in Yorke Bay east of Stanley
Upland geese near Gypsy Cove east of Stanley
This cargo ship is a frequent visitor to Stanley, it delivers essential supplies from Uruguay
One of the FIGAS (Falkland Islands Government Air Service) planes
serving the outer islands and remoter settlements
serving the outer islands and remoter settlements
FIPASS in Stanley Harbour with several fishing vessels
Ross Road - Stanley's Waterfront
Stanley's waterfront
Sunset at the Narrows, Stanley Harbour
Dinner with my friends in Stanley
(Feb. 8)
Leaving Stanley for a cetacean survey with Marina, Maria and Stevie...
Stanley's waterfront
One of the many cruise ships (the Norwegian Sun, registered in Nassau, Bahamas) which bring tourists to the Falklands in the summer. The number of passengers on such a vessel may be higher than the entire civilian population of the Falklands!
This cargo ship is a frequent visitor to Stanley, it delivers essential supplies from Uruguay
The SAERI cetacean survey team on the RHIB: Marina, Stevie and Maria
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis) off Murrel Farm, East Falkland
Lunch break
Large flock of sooty shearwaters (Ardenna grisea)
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis) off Gypsy Cove, East Falkland
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis) off Gypsy Cove, East Falkland
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis) off Gypsy Cove, East Falkland
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Selfie taken during the cetacean survey
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Blue-eyed shag / king cormorant in flight
Resting place of blue-eyed shags near Cape Pembroke
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Marina preparing the GoPro for recording underwater footage
Marina with the GoPro for recording underwater footage
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Maria, Stevie and Marina
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphins (Lagenorhynchus australis)
The lighthouse at Cape Pembroke
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Peale's dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis)
Tussock Island, between Gypsy Cove and Cape Pembroke.
Eleni and I had two wonderful dives right here in January 2017.
Eleni and I had two wonderful dives right here in January 2017.
Cruising a fjord at Murrel Farm, East Falkland, in search of dolphins
Commerson's dolphin (Cephalorhynchus commersonii)
with newborn calf in the eastern part of Stanley Harbour
with newborn calf in the eastern part of Stanley Harbour
Commerson's dolphin (Cephalorhynchus commersonii)
in the eastern part of Stanley Harbour
in the eastern part of Stanley Harbour
Commerson's dolphin (Cephalorhynchus commersonii) in the eastern part of Stanley Harbour
Commerson's dolphin (Cephalorhynchus commersonii)
with newborn calf in the eastern part of Stanley Harbour
with newborn calf in the eastern part of Stanley Harbour
Commerson's dolphin (Cephalorhynchus commersonii)
in the eastern part of Stanley Harbour
in the eastern part of Stanley Harbour
Commerson's dolphin (Cephalorhynchus commersonii)
in the eastern part of Stanley Harbour
in the eastern part of Stanley Harbour
The Falklands' most famous shipwreck, the Lady Elizabeth, at the eastern end of Stanley Harbour
Commerson's dolphin (Cephalorhynchus commersonii)
in the eastern part of Stanley Harbour
in the eastern part of Stanley Harbour
Commerson's dolphins (Cephalorhynchus commersonii)
in the eastern part of Stanley Harbour
in the eastern part of Stanley Harbour
Commerson's dolphins (Cephalorhynchus commersonii)
in the eastern part of Stanley Harbour
in the eastern part of Stanley Harbour
Stanley
Harbour with two long-line fishing vessels moored at FIPASS.
Stanley Harbour is home to a population of Commerson's dolphins!
Stanley Harbour is home to a population of Commerson's dolphins!
Wrecks at the eastern end of Stanley Harbour
FIPASS (Falklands Interim Port and Storage System), a floating system installed by the military after 1982, and purchased by the Falkland Islands Government in 1988.
Stanley's waterfront with its landmarks
- the cathedral and the Two Sisters (the two mountains in the background)
- the cathedral and the Two Sisters (the two mountains in the background)
A Chilean squid-fishing vessel moored in Stanley
A Chilean squid-fishing vessel moored in Stanley
One of Stanley's landmarks, the Cathedral with the Whalebone Arch
Stanley Cottage (left), home of SAERI and BAS, and the former Upland Goose Hotel
The Liberation Monument, commemorating the events of 1982, and Stanley's hospital
Government House, residence of the Governor and the Legislative Assembly of the Falkland Islands
Mission accomplished after a very successful cetacean survey!
Stanley's boat harbor, our launching point
Stanley's boat harbor, our launching point
In a shop window in Stanley, Falkland Islands
One of Stanley's landmarks, the Cathedral with the Whalebone Arch
Shortly after takeoff from RAF Mount Pleasant (MPN) - leaving the Falkland Islands behind
Landed at Amílcar Cabral International Airport (SID), Cape Verde
The RAF Voyager landed at Amílcar Cabral International Airport (SID), Cape Verde
Amílcar Cabral International Airport (SID), Cape Verde
Boarding at Sal Island for the last leg back to RAF Brize Norton
SW England
RAF Brize Norton
RAF Brize Norton. The blue sign tells you that this is not quite a normal airport!
(March 17 - back home, in Newburgh, Aberdeenshire:)
As an epilogue to my Antarctic trip, it was a very nice surprise this weekend to get this letter from Marl, Germany!
