Sunday, January 7,
2018
Today I had
another very exceptional experience – I got a flavor of Antarctica’s interior
when joining a re-supply flight to Fossil Bluff, 270 nautical miles (500 km)
south of Rothera on the SE side of Alexander Island. Fossil Bluff is a remote
forward operating station of the British Antarctic Survey which was first set
up in 1961 and besides serving as a fuel depot and refueling station for
aircraft heading further south into Antarctica, it has also enabled terrestrial
Antarctic research. The site is extremely remote and it has seen an epic story
of survival in Antarctica after a plane crash in 1967-68, when a party of 5 men
were stuck there for a year. And, hardly known, Alexander Island is the world’s
second largest uninhabited island (after Devon Island, Canada)[i]!
Being a flight
assistant/copilot for these flights at Rothera requires passing a short induction course, which involves
technical basics about the aircraft used for fieldwork by BAS, the de Havilland
Canada DHC-6 Twin Otter, meteorology, communications, and survival under remote
Antarctic field conditions. Twin Otters are the perfect type of aircraft for
operating in Polar Regions. Built since the late 1960s, they can be fitted with
skis, which means that they can operate simultaneously on runways and on snow /
ice. As it turned out, the same aircraft and pilot for today’s flight had just
returned from a mission to the US South Pole Station the week before.
Chucky, the acting
Field Operations Manager, had briefed me yesterday afternoon that I could join
a flight to Fossil Bluff today. Timing this was not easy since scuba diving and
flying are incompatible – but due to the Diving Officer’s foot injury one week
ago, I had not been diving yet, so this opportunity was ideal. In the morning
at 8 am, I met with Oliver Smith, the pilot, for pre-flight briefing. The
weather at our destination was still too foggy, so we decided to postpone our
departure and to reconvene in an hour. One hour later, things were still not
ideal, but two hours later, conditions were fine, and we decided to go.
After onboard
briefing, we got airborne. Due to the northerly wind, we left Rothera’s runway
northbound, then turning to the east and then south. We passed across
Marguerite Bay, then a stretch of the Antarctic Peninsula / mainland
Antarctica, and then the George VI Sound and Shelf Ice – a massive floating
glacier, about 50-60 m thick, between Alexander Island and the Antarctic
Peninsula. Needless to say, the scenery was spectacular. I was wondering which
of these mountains that we passed, up to around 3,000 m high, had ever been
climbed by anybody. We flew across the ice shelf, which was covered by patches
of beautiful, turquoise melt water ponds which form for a couple of weeks
during the Antarctic summer.
As we were
approaching our destination, we got into an area of rather low clouds. Oliver
descended the plane to around 300, then 150 m in order to fly under the cloud
layer, across the George VI Ice Shelf. On the right hand side (west of us),
impressive sedimentary rock formations appeared – this is clearly the reason
why our destination is called Fossil Bluff, since these rocks are rich in
fossils.
Because of the
prevailing wind, Oli flew a U-turn, and the Fossil Bluff runway appeared out of
nothing in the white. In fact, it was only marked by a line of drums with flags
attached. As he gently pulled the plane to the ground, I could hardly see the
surface of the snow – but I felt it, when the skis of the plane hit the snow!
This is a typical condition that pilots flying in Antarctica’s interior, which
inevitably requires landing on snow and ice runways, encounter.
The plane came to
a halt, and a skidoo with Jake and Jenny (one of Rothera’s 2 doctors, currently
detached to Fossil Bluff) drove up to us. After a quick welcome, Jake and Oli
started unloading today’s cargo, the 4 fuel drums, while Jenny gave me a quick
tour of the area on a skidoo.
We drove close to
the base – consisting of a cottage with living accommodation for around 6
persons, a food store and a few outside structures, on a slope of scree[ii] .
The forward base at Fossil Bluff was
established in 1961. In the 1960s, scientists have repeatedly overwintered
here! On one occasion, this was involuntary after a plane crash about 300 km
away, when this was the nearest available shelter - the survivors arrived here
on foot. Everything has to be brought here by plane from Rothera.
I was able to have a
quick look at the terrestrial environment – snow and ice, cliffs, and
accumulations of scree. No macroscopic living being. But Jenny told me that
sometimes Adelie penguins walk past here – over 100 km from the nearest bit of
open sea water! Do they get lost, or do they come here on purpose, I had to
wonder.
It is worthwhile
reminding that Fossil Bluff is on a seashore – the George VI Shelf Ice is to
the East, just beneath us. Right here, it is around 55-60 m thick. Impossible
to drill a hole and to go diving – but something must live underneath, I had to
think!
Finally, I did see
some living beings in this desert of ice and a bit of rocks. The designated
spot for peeing (marked with a flag, a bit away from the runway) before
boarding a plane has a reddish accumulation of snow algae, which are obviously
well fertilized here.
Due to a forecast
of deteriorating weather conditions, we had to get airborne again. Oli and I
bade farewell to Jake and Jenny, strapped ourselves into the cockpit seats, and
off we went.
The views were
again jaw-dropping. On this northbound leg back to Rothera, I had views towards
the east, i.e. towards the Antarctic Peninsula (as opposed to Alexander Island
on the way south). Mountains, glaciers… After about an hour, we reached the sea
at Marguerite Bay. The Antarctic Peninsula is quite narrow in this area – only
around 35 km at its narrowest isthmus. On its east side, and only about 1 hr of
flying time from Rothera, is the large Larsen C Ice Shelf. Larsen A and B have
disintegrated and largely vanished over the last 16 years, attributed to
long-term, man-made climate change. Larsen C, the largest of this system, has
been intensively monitored since the disintegration of A and B, as a sentinel
for the further progress of climate change.
Now flying over
the sea, there were lots of ice floes. Some of them had seals on them (but we
were too fast and too high for getting good shots).
The area started
looking familiar to me – the distinctive sky lines of Jenny Island, Mt. Liotard
and Pourquoi Pas Island appeared on the horizon. A bit less than an hour later,
we made a smooth landing at Rothera.
Even though I have
traveled a lot, today's flight to Fossil Bluff, Alexander Island, was an
extraordinary experience and a flavor of the Antarctic interior. Antarctica's
beauty and solitude are of another world. Around 4 h for roughly 1,000 km (540
nm) in the air, and a bit less than an hour on the ground at the destination.
Special thanks to Chucky, the Acting Field Operations Manager, and Oli, the
pilot, for making this happen.
Why are these
flights necessary? Due to the remoteness, fuel drums are ferried here by plane
from Rothera, which is very expensive and laborious, but still the only way to enable
aircraft- and vehicle-based expeditions here and further south in Antarctica[iii].
In order to give you an idea of the effort required, today’s flight from
Rothera to Fossil Bluff delivered 4 drums of aviation fuel of 55 US gal (208 l
each) = 832 l in total. The fuel burn of the Twin Otter from Rothera to Fossil
Bluff amounted to around 80 US gal per hour, i.e. for a flight of a bit less
than 4 hours = around 320 US gal = a bit less than 1200 l, which is almost 1 ½
times the amount of fuel delivered for refueling other aircraft at Fossil
Bluff. In other words, for delivering 4 fuel drums to Fossil Bluff, the plane had to burn the content of almost 6 fuel drums. The ratio obviously gets much worse the further inland planes operate in
Antarctica. But scientific missions in the interior of Antarctica are essential
for a better understanding of what is happening to the world’s largest glaciers
(and, consequently, the world’s sea level), the ozone layer (the ozone hole was
discovered by BAS scientists working at Halley Base in the 1980s), and many
other science questions.
(Click on the images for a full-screen, high-resolution view.
You can browse by using the cursor buttons.)
You can browse by using the cursor buttons.)
This plane, a de Havilland Canada DHC-6 Twin Otter, was to take us to Fossil Bluff and back today!
About to take off from Rothera
Leaving Rothera behind
Anchorage Island, Lagoon Island, Leonie Island and Ryder Bay, just south of Rothera
Jenny Island
The flight path of the Twin Otter was almost exactly a straight line to Fossil Bluff. Note that due to the southbound flight path, the map on the display is upside down.
Oli updating the in-flight log
Scientists and other staff at Rothera usually accompany these flights as co-pilots.
Today, I seized the chance!
Today, I seized the chance!
Crossing a bit of the Antarctic Peninsula, with the George VI Shelf Ice and Alexander Island in the background
Mountains of the SW Antarctic Peninsula and the George VI Shelf Ice
The George VI Shelf Ice and Alexander Island in the background
Mountains of the SW Antarctic Peninsula and the George VI Shelf Ice
Mountains of the SW Antarctic Peninsula and the George VI Shelf Ice
Mountains of the SW Antarctic Peninsula and the George VI Shelf Ice
Mountains of the SW Antarctic Peninsula and the George VI Shelf Ice
Break-up and bits of open seawater at the northern end of the George VI Shelf Ice
Mountains of the SW Antarctic Peninsula and the George VI Shelf Ice
At this point, we left the Antarctic Peninsula and flew across the George VI Shelf Ice towards Alexander Island. Note that due to the southbound flight path, the map on the display is upside down.
Mountains of the SW Antarctic Peninsula and the George VI Shelf Ice
Mountains of the SW Antarctic Peninsula and the George VI Shelf Ice
Oli the pilot
Alexander Island and George VI Ice Shelf with turquoise melt water ponds on its surface
Alexander Island and George VI Ice Shelf with turquoise melt water ponds on its surface
Alexander Island and George VI Ice Shelf with turquoise melt water ponds on its surface
George VI Ice Shelf with turquoise melt water ponds on its surface. The ice shelf here is 50-60 m thick, with seawater underneath.
Alexander Island and George VI Ice Shelf with turquoise melt water ponds on its surface
Alexander Island and George VI Ice Shelf with turquoise melt water ponds on its surface
Alexander Island and George VI Ice Shelf with turquoise melt water ponds on its surface
Alexander Island and George VI Ice Shelf with turquoise melt water ponds on its surface
George VI Ice Shelf with turquoise melt water ponds on its surface. The ice shelf here is 50-60 m thick, with seawater underneath.
George VI Ice Shelf with turquoise melt water ponds on its surface. The ice shelf here is 50-60 m thick, with seawater underneath.
George VI Ice Shelf with turquoise melt water ponds on its surface. The ice shelf here is 50-60 m thick, with seawater underneath.
George VI Ice Shelf with turquoise melt water ponds on its surface. The ice shelf here is 50-60 m thick, with seawater underneath.
George VI Ice Shelf with the coastal mountains on the east side of Alexander Island
Coastal mountains on the east side of Alexander Island with impressive sedimentary formations
- this area is rich in fossils!
- this area is rich in fossils!
Alexander Island is the 2nd largest uninhabited island on the planet! And the ice shelf here is 50-60 m thick, with seawater underneath.
Coastal mountains on the east side of Alexander Island with impressive sedimentary formations
- this area is rich in fossils!
- this area is rich in fossils!
In flight above the George VI Ice Shelf,
with the coastal mountains on the east side of Alexander Island in the background
with the coastal mountains on the east side of Alexander Island in the background
George VI Ice Shelf with the coastal mountains on the east side of Alexander Island
George VI Ice Shelf east of Fossil Bluff
That's our destination! Can you see that line of flags and fuel drums in the snow? No...?
You still can't see the runway? Look at the line of drums and flags...
...can you see it now?
We need to get that plane safely on the ground here...
We need to get that plane safely on the ground here...
Well done. Landed at Fossil Bluff.
Inside the Twin Otter: the cargo of 4 fuel drums which it has brought to Fossil Bluff today
Getting the ramp in place for rolling the drums out of the plane
Jenny drove me a bit around on this snow mobile (skidoo)
The Twin Otter at Fossil Bluff
The forward base at Fossil Bluff, which was established in 1961. In the 1960s, scientists have repeatedly overwintered here! On one occasion, this was involuntary after a plane crash about 300 km away, when this was the nearest available shelter - the survivors arrived here on foot. This facility can house up to 6 people. Everything has to be brought here by plane from Rothera.
Jenny drove me a bit around on this snow mobile (skidoo)
Fossil Bluff
The forward base at Fossil Bluff, which was established in 1961. In the 1960s, scientists have repeatedly overwintered here! On one occasion, this was involuntary after a plane crash about 300 km away, when this was the nearest available shelter - the survivors arrived here on foot. This facility can house up to 6 people. Everything has to be brought here by plane from Rothera.
Exploring the terrestrial habitats at Fossil Bluff, Alexander Island - this material is called scree
Exploring the terrestrial habitats at Fossil Bluff, Alexander Island - this material is called scree
Exploring the terrestrial habitats at Fossil Bluff, Alexander Island
Fossil Bluff
Antarctic solitude at Fossil Bluff
Arrived at Fossil Bluff - emergency accommodation for pilots and scientists (with solar power).
The Twin Otter and the cargo of 4 fuel drums which it has brought to Fossil Bluff today
The fuel depot at the Fossil Bluff runway
Farewell from Fossil Bluff - Jenny (left, one of the 2 Rothera doctors, currently detached to Fossil Bluff), Oli (center, the pilot) and myself (right)
The Twin Otter and the cargo of 4 fuel drums which it has brought to Fossil Bluff today
Getting ready to fly again (Oli is opening the co-pilot's door on "my" side)
The snow runway at Fossil Bluff before take-off
Oliver completing pre-flight log
George VI Ice Shelf
Northern Alexander Island and George VI Ice Shelf
George VI Ice Shelf
Northern Alexander Island and George VI Ice Shelf
George VI Ice Shelf
Northern Alexander Island and George VI Ice Shelf
Antarctic Peninsula and northern George VI Ice Shelf
Antarctic Peninsula and northern George VI Ice Shelf
Mountains on the east side of the northern George VI Ice Shelf
Nunatak on the Antarctic Peninsula
Nunataks on the Antarctic Peninsula
Wordie Ice Shelf, Antarctic Peninsula
Ice Shelf, Antarctic Peninsula
Sea ice with an iceberg locked in it, southern Marguerite Bay
Ice floes in Marguerite Bay
Marguerite Bay with the Antarctic Peninsula
Marguerite Bay with Pourquoi Pas Island
Ice floes in Marguerite Bay. The one on the top has a resting seal on it.
The area started looking familiar - Jenny Island and Mt. Liotard, Adelaide Island
Mt. Liotard, Adelaide Island
Leonie Island, seen from the SE
Final approach to Rothera. After flying about 1,000 km through Antarctic wilderness,
this felt like coming home!
Final approach to Rothera. After flying about 1,000 km through Antarctic wilderness,
this felt like coming home!
this felt like coming home!
Final approach to Rothera. After flying about 1,000 km through Antarctic wilderness,
this felt like coming home!
this felt like coming home!
[i] It was named
after Russian Tsar Alexander I by Fabian Gottlieb von Bellingshausen, who
discovered it in 1821 during the First Russian Antarctic Expedition.
[iii] With a few
exceptions – some larger bases in the interior, e.g. the US South Pole Station
and the German Neumayer Station, are supplied by caterpillar treks. In the case
of the South Pole Station, this takes around 2-3 weeks one-way from McMurdo
Base along what is called the South Pole Traverse, 1,601 km long!
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