Kuwait - Arabian Gulf, February 2019

(Feb. 1, 2019)

I am once more writing our blog in mid-air, right now east of Al-Kut, Iraq, on the way from Amsterdam to Kuwait. I am on the way to a monthlong excursion with my Kuwaiti PhD students Amal Hasan and Hanan Al-Adilah, exploring the marine algal biodiversity of Kuwait. In Kuwait, we will be joined tonight by Ioanna Kosma, marine biologist and scientific diver from the University of the Aegean in Mytilini, Lesvos Island, Greece and tomorrow by Dr. Akira F. Peters, phycologist from Roscoff and Santec, Brittany, France. Our hosts will be Dr. Dhia Al-Bader, phycologist at Kuwait University, with further support from Prof. Andreas Wolfram Henkel, likewise at Kuwait University. Also participating in the later part of the trip will be my brother, Hendrik, Professor or Plant Biochemistry and Biophysics at the Czech Academy of Sciences and University of Southern Bohemia in Ceske Budejovice, Czech Republic. 

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 Leaving ABZ Aberdeen for Amsterdam AMS and Kuwait KWI...
1 February 2019

 Leaving ABZ Aberdeen for Amsterdam AMS and Kuwait KWI - the coast of northern Aberdeenshire with the village of Newburgh and - my home!!
1 February 2019

 Leaving ABZ Aberdeen for Amsterdam AMS and Kuwait KWI - the coast of northern Aberdeenshire with the village of Newburgh and - my home!!
1 February 2019

The Pontus region in northern Turkey, on the Black Sea Coast, west of Sinop
1 February

It is night outside, but the gigantic flares of oil and gas installations in southern Iraq are clearly visible. This route is a novelty – during my previous trips to the region in 2015-2016, Iraqi airspace was closed for international airlines, which suggests that Iraq has now become safe enough to fly across.

Our objective is to establish an inventory of all Kuwaiti marine macrophytes, seaweeds and sea grasses, supported by DNA barcodes (Amal’s PhD project), and to collect seaweeds for marine natural products research (Hanan’s PhD project, supervised by Dr. Rainer Ebel and myself at Aberdeen). We will also explore the marine vegetation in the vicinity of desalination plants which provide all the drinking water of Kuwait and which, besides a massive carbon footprint, release a hot, concentrated salty brine into coastal waters, damaging marine life.

Amal, Hanan and I left Aberdeen this morning in beautiful winter weather after what was the coldest night of the winter so far, with -7°C in Aberdeen! I must say that I am also relieved to escape the BREXIT nightmare in the UK for a few weeks.

(March 17, 2019) 

A quiet Sunday back home in Newburgh, Aberdeenshire, is the occasion to complete the blog of our expedition to Kuwait. 

 Mina Al-Ahmadi, Kuwait's oil port
1 February

Mina Al-Ahmadi, Kuwait's oil port
1 February 2019

 Mina Al-Ahmadi, Kuwait's oil port, with a large oil refinery
1 February 2019

Landed in Kuwait!
1 February 2019

We landed in Kuwait KWI in the evening of Feb. 1. Our first base was a hotel in Salmiya, a pleasant coastal suburb a bit east of downtown Kuwait City on the coast. We spent the first two days meeting our local friends and collaborators, especially Dhia and Andreas, organizing logistics and shopping for last pieces of equipment and supplies.

Salmiya Marina, Kuwait City
In the early hours of February 2, 2019

Waking up in Kuwait this morning. View of the Marina, Salmiya.
The dirt on the window is dust from the desert.
2 February 2019

Waking up in Kuwait this morning... View of the Kuwait Towers from my room
2 February 2019

Another view from my room on the 13th floor
2 February

Marina, Salmiya

2 February 2019

Locals having lunch
2 February

Locals having shisha
2 February

Our first lunch in Kuwait - delicious
2 February 2019

Logistics meeting on the 13th floor in Salmiya
2 February 2019

View from the 29th floor of our hotel in Salmiya along the Arabian Gulf Street towards downtown Kuwait City and the Kuwait Towers (right)
2 February

Marina Mall, Salmiya
2 February 2019

Cat on a bench in Salmiya
2 Feb. 2019

Mosque in Salmiya
2 Feb. 2019

The team is getting complete: Akira has arrived in Kuwait this evening.
2 February

Another morning in Kuwait
3 February

Time for sweets...
3 February

...and Arabian coffee!
3 February

Kuwait has seen intense rainfall this winter, more than any winter in the last 40 years.
The desert is now full of beautiful flowers!
3 February

New housing development in As Surrah south of Kuwait City
3 February

Amal with desert wildflowers
3 February

Even though most Kuwaitis now live in nice houses in the city, the nomad tradition of spending part of the year in tents in the desert is very much alive - even if the tent is pitched just behind the house!
3 February

Water towers seen from the freeway

February 3

There is currently a state visit from Qatar to Kuwait going on
Feb. 3

We then explored various beaches, harbours and marinas between Salmiya and downtown Kuwait City,
looking for seaweeds.
Feb. 3

Driving up Arabian Gulf Street, the scenic coastal avenue between the southeastern suburbs and Kuwait City, towards the Kuwait Towers - the country's iconic landmark since the late 1970s.
Feb. 3

Sharq Fishing Harbour with traditional wooden dhows
February 3

Sharq Fish Market
February 3

Sharq Fish Market. (These people had no clue they were being photographed.)
February 3

Sharq Fish Market. (These people had no clue they were being photographed.)
February 3

Sharq Fish Market. (These people had no clue they were being photographed.)
February 3

Sharq Fish Market. (These people had no clue they were being photographed.)
February 3

Sharq Fish Market. (These people had no clue they were being photographed.)
February 3

Sharq Fish Market. (These people had no clue they were being photographed.)
February 3

Sharq Fish Market. (These people had no clue they were being photographed.)
February 3

 Sharq Fish Market

 February 3

Sharq Hawalli, Al'Asimah
Feb. 3

Kuwaiti license plate

Sharq Hawalli, Al'Asimah
Feb. 3

 Sharq Hawalli, Al'Asimah
Feb. 3

Sharq Fishing Harbour with traditional wooden dhows
February 3

Sharq Fishing Harbour with traditional wooden dhows
February 3

Sharq Fishing Harbour with traditional wooden dhows
February 3

Sharq Fishing Harbour with traditional wooden dhows
February 3

Sharq Fishing Harbour with traditional wooden dhows
February 3

The house of the former British Political Agent, Lieutenant Colonel Harold Richard Patrick Dickson. He and his wife Violet were very much liked by the Kuwaitis. Violet was evacuated after the Iraqi invasion of Kuwait and sadly died before the country was liberated. The house, now being refurbished, is currently a museum (I managed to visit it in 2016).
Feb. 3

The Gold Soukh, Mubarakiya, Kuwait City
3 February

Already the second dinner at our favourite Lebanese in Salmiya
3 February

Our accommodation in Salmiya
4 February

Our accommodation in Salmiya
4 February

View from our hotel in Salmiya
4 February

We then moved to Khiran in the south of Kuwait, about 10 km north of the border to Saudi Arabia, where Amal owns a holiday apartment or chalet, on the shore of a recently-constructed lagoon. Ever since the construction of the Palm Islands off the coast of Dubai in 2001, such modifications of the coastline have become very popular in the countries of the Arabian Gulf - especially in the UAE, Qatar, Bahrain, Saudi Arabia and Kuwait. Given the high value of real estate and the rapidly increasing wealthy population in these countries, the main driver is obviously to obtain more waterfront construction land by artificially increasing the length of the coastline. Given the ease of access of this artificial shore in front of Amal's chalet, this and other nearby artificial canals and lagoons became obvious study sites. Ioanna, Andreas and I had many opportunities to dive in these, revealing interesting insight about these artificial marine habitats. We feel that a thorough exploration of these artificial lagoons and canals would deserve some serious further study, also because they are getting so common throughout the Arabian Gulf Region and an obvious question is, can they maybe be designed and built in a way that enhances desirable marine biodiversity? Indeed, Andreas was our main support and guide for diving during our entire trip to Kuwait, and he deserves special thanks and mention here. 

 Residential neighbourhood in Kuwait City
Feb. 4

Mina Al-Ahmadi, Kuwait's oil port and largest petrochemical complex
Feb. 4

Mina Al-Ahmadi, Kuwait's oil port and largest petrochemical complex
Feb. 4

 Mina Al-Ahmadi, Kuwait's oil port and largest petrochemical complex

Feb. 4

 Our first lunch in Amal's chalet in Khiran
Feb. 4

 Ioanna experimenting whether the Law of Gravity also works in Kuwait

 

 

Inspection of our first snorkeling site in Khiran
4 February

A boat loaded with fish traps on a trailer
Khiran, 4 February

Water towers under construction Khiran,
4 February 

Hanan and Amal cooking dinner for the crew
Khiran, 4 February

Since scuba diving was not yet possible today, we decided to explore the marine environment in front of Amal's chalet in Khiran. Numerous such structures with artificial canals, lagoons and islands have been built in the Arabian Gulf countries in the last 15 years, profoundly altering the coastal topography. Little is known at present how marine life is coping with these changes and what is actually living in these artificial marine habitats...
5 February 

...So Ioanna and I spent the morning snorkeling in front of Amal's chalet! The seabed is mostly silty and soft-bottom, covered in dense mats of Cladophora...
5 February

Cladophora mats in the lagoon in Khiran Resort
5 February

Cladophora mats in the lagoon in Khiran Resort
5 February

Lizardfish in the lagoon of Khiran resort
5 February

If a bit of rocky substrate is present, Sargassum can take hold.
5 February

Besides extensive Cladophora mats, filter feeders are common
 5 February

 

Looking out of the water at the surrounding chalets
5 February

Back from the sea... Inspection of our collection in the improvised lab in Amal's chalet
5 February

Lab work on the collection from our snorkeling survey in Amal's chalet
5 February

On the way to today's 2nd snorkeling site - scenery in Khiran.
The two fuming smoke stacks belong to the Al-Zour electric power & desalination plant.
5 February

Salsola sp., a highly salt- and drough-resistant genus of higher plants
5 February

Getting ready for the next round of snorkeling - we explored the artificial rocky shore and pillars of the 2 bridges in the background for attached marine life
5 February

This artificial habitat turned out to be full of life - the shallow seabed is densely covered in these mussels
5 February

The seabed around the bridge is densely covered in filter-feeding invertebrates
5 February

The seabed around the bridge is densely covered in filter-feeding invertebrates
5 February

At ca. 7 m depth, the seabed next to the pillar of the bridge
5 February

Ioanna exploring the pillars supporting the bridge
5 February

... there was even a purple snail!
5 February

... there was even a purple snail!
5 February

Another snorkeling sortie in the artificial lagoon outside Amal's chalet...
there is something hiding beneath that lone Sargassum!
6 February

...a cuttlefish!
6 February

Cuttlefish beneath a Sargassum in the artificial lagoon outside Amal's chalet
6 February

Frithjof collecting Cladophora mats for Hanan's natural products research in the Aberdeen Marine Biodiscovery Centre
6 February 2019

Ioanna collecting Cladophora mats for Hanan's natural products research in the Aberdeen Marine Biodiscovery Centre
6 February 2019

Ioanna with this morning's catch - about 10 kg of Cladophora mats for Hanan's natural products research in the Aberdeen Marine Biodiscovery Centre
6 February 2019

Traditional Kuwaiti lunch, cooked by Amal's grandmother
6 February

Traditional Kuwaiti lunch cooked by Amal's grandmother - delicious!
6 February

This morning's diving work - about 10 kg of Cladophora for Hanan's PhD
6 February

About to go under water again off Nuwaiseeb, the last village in southern Kuwait before the border with Saudi Arabia
6 February

Soft coral in shallow waters off Nuwaiseeb, the last village in southern Kuwait before the border with Saudi Arabia
6 February

Ioanna snorkeling at Nuwaiseeb
6 February

Cormorants on a fish trap off Nuwaiseeb
6 February

A model of this type of fish trap in the Bait Al-Othman Museum, 17 February

Halodule uninervis, one of the typical seagrasses of the Arabian Gulf
Nuwaiseeb, 6 February

While based in Khiran, we had two snorkeling excursions to Nuwaiseeb - the last community in Kuwait before the border to Saudi Arabia. We found a very rich intertidal and shallow sublittoral - and a beautiful meadow of the seagrass Halodule uninervis, which is typical of the Arabian Gulf. 

Another highlight of our time in Khiran was the excursion with the patrol boat of the Kuwait Coast Guard, Dastoor, to the islands of Qarooh and Umm Al-Maradim, the former of which is ca. 35 km out in the Arabian Gulf. Qaruh owes its name to the large amounts of petroleum sediments in the area (Qar in Arabic). It is the smallest of Kuwait's 9 islands, and also the furthest island from the Kuwaiti coast. We were impressed by the abundant corals at Qarooh. Like at all study sites, we collected substratum samples in sterile tubes, from which Akira will obtain live isolates using the Germling Emergence Method (Peters AF, Couceiro L, Tsiamis K, Küpper FC, Valero M, 2015: Barcoding of cryptic stages of marine brown algae isolated from incubated substratum reveals high diversity in Acinetosporaceae (Ectocarpales).- Cryptogamie-Algologie 36(1), 3-29). Special thanks go to Captain Hadi and his crew on the Dastoor. 

Leaving Khiran about the Coast Guard patrol boat Dastoor
7 February

Amal, Dhia and Akira aboard the Dastoor
7 February

Ioanna, Andreas and Yousef aboard the Dastoor
7 February

A large offshore transport and construction vessel owned by Dockwise,
a Dutch oil and gas service company providing logistical management of large and heavy structures
- seen en route from Khiran to Qaruh, 7 February

On the bridge of the Dastoor
7 February

Qaruh - Kuwait's furthest offshore island, about 1/4 of the distance between Kuwait and Iran in the Arabian Gulf
7 February

Approaching Qaruh
7 February

Diving down at the pier of Qaruh
7 February

Turf algae covering dead corals off Qaruh Island
7 February

Pearl oysters are very common around Qaruh. In the old days, prior to the discovery of oil, pearl oyster diving with primitive means was a major economic activity in Kuwait and throughout the Arabian Gulf.
7 February

Corals off Qaruh Island
7 February

Corals off Qaruh Island
7 February

Andreas (right) and Ioanna (left) at work off Qaruh Island
7 February

Pencil sea urchin off Kubbar,
7 February

Tropical fish and some long-spined black sea urchins of the genus Diadema off Kubbar
(photo by Ioanna Kosma)
7 February

While we were under water, the Coast Guard staff prepared a delicious lunch
which was waiting for us once we got back onto the patrol boat Dastoor
7 February

With Yousef aboard the Dastoor
7 February

Dhia, Akira, Ioanna, me and Amal aboard the Dastoor en route from Qaruh to Umm Al-Maradim
7 February

The harbour and Coast Guard station on Umm Al-Maradim
7 February

Since it was difficult to launch the second dive from the Dastour, we used this small speed boat to start our dive.
The support structure that can be seen in the front of the boat is for a .50 caliber machine gun
- the normal job of this boat is not to take marine scientists to their dive sites!
7 February

About to start our dive
7 February

The anchor line of the buouy (next to which the boat dropped us) had obviously been in the water for a while - it had some beautiful hard corals growing on it!
7 February

Pencil sea urchin off Umm Al-Maradim Island
7 February

Porcelain snail with epiphytic algae off Umm Al-Maradim Island
7 February

Sea urchins and corals off Umm Al-Maradim Island
7 February

Pearl oysters, corals and sea urchins off Umm Al-Maradim Island
7 February

Our algal surveys of Kuwait rely heavily on the Germling Emergence Method developed by my long-time friend Akira Peters. For this, we dive with sterile tubes which are filled with bits of substratum like sand, coral or shell fragments, or even anthropogenic debris like pieces of fishing line. The samples are subsequently incubated in the lab, yielding a wide diversity of algal outgrowth which is normally invisible to diving scientists. DNA barcoding enables a rapid dereplication and identification of any novelties. This technique is particularly suitable for remote study areas with limited time and facilities for scientists.
Umm Al-Maradim,
7 February

Corals off Umm Al-Maradim Island
7 February

Corals off Umm Al-Maradim Island
7 February

Corals with epiphytic algae (Colpomenia) off Umm Al-Maradim Island
7 Februay

Corals and sea urchins off Umm Al-Maradim Island
7 February

Corals and sea urchins off Umm Al-Maradim Island
7 February

Long-spined sea urchin (Diadema setosum?) with
Pseudochromis sp., likely Pseudochromis aldabraensis
Umm Al-Maradim,
7 February

Interestingly, the only macroscopically visible macroalgae, Colpomenia sp. and an ectocarpoid, can withstand the intense grazing pressure of sea urchins around the island
Umm Al-Maradim, 7 February

Interestingly, the only macroscopically visible macroalgae, Colpomenia sp. and an ectocarpoid, can withstand the intense grazing pressure of sea urchins around the island
Umm Al-Maradim, 7 February

Interestingly, the only macroscopically visible macroalgae, Colpomenia sp. and an ectocarpoid, can withstand the intense grazing pressure of sea urchins around the island
Umm Al-Maradim, 7 February

Interestingly, the only macroscopically visible macroalgae, Colpomenia sp. and an ectocarpoid, can withstand the intense grazing pressure of sea urchins around the island
Umm Al-Maradim, 7 February

Interestingly, the only macroscopically visible macroalgae, Colpomenia sp. and an ectocarpoid, can withstand the intense grazing pressure of sea urchins around the island
Umm Al-Maradim, 7 February

Black sea urchins and coral debris at ca. 2 m depth
Umm Al-Maradim, 7 February

Stepping ashore on Umm Al-Maradim Island.
I should add that the bottle at our feet was a Johnny Walker Black Label! Totally illegal in Kuwait.
(We only found it there, honestly!)
7 February

We had planned the end of the dive to land on Umm Al-Maradim Island. The island is covered in salt- and drought-tolerant vegetation and is populated by birds and sea turtles.
7 February

The Kuwait Coast Guard Station on Umm Al-Maradim
7 February

The patrol boat Dastoor moored in the naval and Coast Guard base at Umm Al-Maradim.
This boat took us to 2 very interesting sites today.
7 February

Sunset above the Arabian Gulf, aboard the Dastoor en route from Umm Al-Maradim to Khiran
7 February

Andreas aboard the Dastoor en route from Umm Al-Maradim to Khiran
7 February

On the bridge of the Dastoor en route from Umm Al-Maradim to Khiran
7 February

While in Khiran, we had 3 rainy days. A good time for writing papers and catching up on other office work! Amal had the great idea that I should buy a Kuwaiti SIM card for my smartphone during our second day in Salmiya, which was blessing since it meant that we had constant internet access on all our laptops and other devices, using my smartphone as a WiFi hotspot.

One day, on 8 February, we explored the main canal in Khiran - first, Andreas and I dived at the breakwater outside the Al-Zour power station and desalination plant. Conditions were quite difficult with 1 m visibility at the most.

About to explore the underwater environment of the breakwater protecting the Al-Zour Power Station, Khiran
8 February

Sand dollar close to the breakwater protecting the Al-Zour Power Station, Khiran
8 February

Ectocarpoid algae on the breakwater protecting the Al-Zour Power Station, Khiran
8 February

Breakwater protecting the Al-Zour Power Station, Khiran
8 February

Surfacing from our dive at the breakwater protecting the Al-Zour Power Station, Khiran
8 February

Marine and beach litter is a huge, ubiquitous problem in Kuwait
8 February

The second dive on 8 February took Ioanna and me to the center of the Khiran Canal, close to the main road bridge going into Khiran.

Asparagopsis (?) in a mussel bed at approx. 7 m depth, Khiran
8 February

Mussel bed at approx. 7 m depth, Khiran
8 February

Mussel bed at approx. 7 m depth, Khiran
8 February

Mussel bed at approx. 7 m depth, Khiran
8 February

Mussel bed at approx. 7 m depth, Khiran
8 February

Mussel bed at approx. 7 m depth, Khiran
8 February

Coral in a mussel bed at approx. 7 m depth, Khiran
8 February

Seastar in mussel bed, Khiran
8 February

Pinna shell in mussel bed, Khiran
8 February

Coral in mussel bed, Khiran
8 February

Corals and Pinna shell in mussel bed, Khiran
8 February

Pinna shell in mussel bed, Khiran
8 February

Khiran
8 February

Khiran
8 February

Khiran
8 February

Khiran
8 February

Bryozoans? Khiran
8 February

Cuttlefish, Khiran
8 February

Seastar, Khiran
8 February

Epiphytic algae on discarded fishing gear, Khiran
8 February

Sargassum with epiphytes, Khiran
8 February

Khiran
8 February

Khiran
8 February

Kuwait's National Day was approaching! Decorations on private houses, Khiran,
9 February

Shopping mall with numerous restaurants where we often went for lunch or dinner in Khiran,
9 February

Ioanna drying seaweed herbarium specimens between newspapers on the balcony of Amal's chalet in Khiran,
9 February

Menu of a restaurant in Khiran. Note the wine and the "Arabian Campion".

10 February

That's how we go diving in Kuwait! Elevator in the building with Amal's chalet, 10 February

Sand dollar in algal mat in the lagoon outside Amal's chalet in Khiran, 10 February

Another rainy day in Khiran: Great for office and lab work.
11 February

Another rainy day in Khiran
11 February

After the heavy rain of the last few days, there where poddles - or rather lakes? - everywhere in this otherwise very dry country!
12 February

Negotiating shore access in the south of Khiran,
12 February

Lone Sargassum off the coast of Khiran
12 February

Hormophysa cuneiformis off Khiran
12 February

Shallow sublittoral off Khiran
12 February

Halodule uninervis seagrass meadow off Khiran
12 February

Sea urchins can often be seen carring small stones or seashells on their spines
Khiran, 12 February

Pinna shell, Khiran
12 February

Hormophysa cuneiformis off Khiran
12 February

Hormophysa cuneiformis off Khiran
12 February

Padina sp. off Khiran
12 February

A mixed seagrass meadow of Halophila ovalis and Halodule uninervis off Khiran
12 February

A mixed seagrass meadow of Halophila ovalis and Halodule uninervis off Khiran
12 February

A mixed seagrass meadow of Halophila ovalis and Halodule uninervis off Khiran
12 February

Pinna shell in a mixed seagrass meadow of Halophila ovalis and Halodule uninervis off Khiran
12 February

Pinna shell in a mixed seagrass meadow of Halophila ovalis and Halodule uninervis off Khiran
12 February

Coral in a seagrass meadow off Khiran
12 February

Stepping ashore after snorkeling off the Khiran coast
12 February

Stepping ashore after snorkeling off the Khiran coast
12 February

Stepping ashore after snorkeling off the Khiran coast
12 February

Every excursion is followed by lab work, which can take much longer than the time spent in the field or under water! Khiran, 12 February

Part of our objectives (in preparation for a project funded by the Kuwait Foundation for the Advancement of Science, KFAS) was also to conduct preliminary surveys at the brine outfalls of the desalination plants of Al-Zour and Doha East/West. Being a very arid country without any usable natural freshwater resources, Kuwait relies entirely on seawater desalination for meeting its demand for drinking / tap and industrial water, using Multi-Stage Flash Distillation (MSFD) coupled to electric power generation, powered by burning heavy fuel oil. Besides substantial emissions of carbon dioxide and other atmospheric pollutants, this generates a hot brine of concentrated sea salts, which is released back into shallow coastal sea waters. Led by Dhia, we are exploring how seaweed and seagrass communities are affected by the outfall of hot and salty brine.The
Doha East/West plants are next to the military base of Camp Doha, which played a central role in the invasion of Iraq in 2003. 

On the way to the Al-Zour Power & Desalination Plant north of Khiran
12 February

Al-Zour Power & Desalination Plant north of Khiran
12 February

On the way to the Al-Zour Power & Desalination Plant north of Khiran
12 February

Al-Zour Power & Desalination Plant north of Khiran
12 February

Al-Zour Power & Desalination Plant north of Khiran
12 February

The white current marks the brine outfall of the Al-Zour Power & Desalination Plant north of Khiran
12 February

The white current marks the brine outfall of the Al-Zour Power & Desalination Plant north of Khiran
12 February

Al-Zour Power & Desalination Plant north of Khiran
12 February

Al-Zour Power & Desalination Plant north of Khiran
12 February

The future vs. the past of power generation in Kuwait! Also Kuwait will have to massively reduce its use of fossil fuels,
and ultimately bring it to zero.
Al-Zour, 12 February

Akira sampling an outfall at the Al-Zour Power & Desalination Plant north of Khiran
12 February

During the walk back, a local made Akira a tasty present of a couple of fried crickets. Well, ehmmm, I and everybody else politely abstained...
Khiran, 12 February

Akira had crickets for dinner. Everybody else politely abstained.
12 February

After a successful day in the field - preparing herbarium specimens, writing notebooks
and logging data in Amal's chalet in Khiran, 12 February

After the intense rain of the last few days, lakes everywhere in the desert!
Seen from the main highway from Saudi Arabia to Kuwait City, 13 February

Another day of snorkeling off Khiran. On this occasion, we collected live seagrasses for Dhia's physiological experiments with brine from a desalination plant outfall.
12 February

Another day of snorkeling off Khiran. On this occasion, we collected live seagrasses for Dhia's physiological experiments with brine from a desalination plant outfall.
12 February

Another day of snorkeling off Khiran. On this occasion, we collected live seagrasses for Dhia's physiological experiments with brine from a desalination plant outfall.
12 February

Pinna shell in a Halodule / Halophila seagrass meadow off Khiran
12 February

During our last day in Khiran (13 February), we conducted more scuba diving surveys in the main canal. We had come to realize that this totally artificial, recently established habitat had become home to quite a diverse marine life, which would deserve further study.

Pinna shell and mussels off Khiran

Mussel bed, Khiran
13 February

Sargassum with epiphytes, Khiran
13 February

Filamentous red algal epiphytes
Khiran, 13 February

Khiran, 13 February

Khiran, 13 February

Khiran, 13 February

Ioanna trying to photograph a sea feather
Khiran, 13 February

Sea feather
Khiran, 13 February

Sea feather
Khiran, 13 February

Ioanna in action
Khiran, 13 February

Cuttlefish
Khiran, 13 February

Cuttlefish
Khiran, 13 February

Cuttlefish
Khiran, 13 February

Sea feather
Khiran, 13 February

Nudibranch
Khiran, 13 February

Nudibranch
Khiran, 13 February

Mussel bed
Khiran, 13 February

Bryozoans?
Khiran, 13 February

Plastic littering the seabed
Khiran, 13 February

Sea feather
Khiran, 13 February

Andreas was waiting for us on the shore when we surfaced - with the characteristic double plume of smoke from the Al-Zour Power & Desalination Plant in the background
13 February

Sunset above Khiran - the moment when Ioanna and I surfaced from our dive
13 February

After 10 days in Khiran, we moved our main base to Mahboula, a southern coastal suburb of Kuwait City, and close to the marine lab of Kuwait University in Fintas. From there, we explored the entire central and northern coasts of the country - again, very much with the help of Andreas, who took us to deserts of northern Kuwait with his Hummer H3. 

Lakes everywhere after the recent heavy rain! It seems that when it rains, the desert soil does not absorb the water so easily.
Just north of Khiran, 14 February

Driving from Khiran on the coastal highway towards Kuwait City
14 February

Mina Al-Ahmadi
14 February

Mina Al-Ahmadi
14 February

Mina Al-Ahmadi
14 February

Moving house in Kuwait: after 10 days in Khiran, we moved our base to Mahboula / Fintas, SE of Kuwait City this morning, close to the marine lab of Kuwait University. The SUV was packed to the roof.
14 February

Our desperate search for a rental car in Kuwait this morning. This one seems slightly used.
14 February

The Sheikh Jaber Al-Ahmad Cultural Centre (JACC), informally known as the Kuwait Opera House‎Arabian Gulf St, ‎Shuwaikh‎, Kuwait, 14 February

Avicennia mangroves at Al-Sulaibikhat, Kuwait Bay. Unfortunately the site is heavily impacted by marine plastic litter; this could be a wonderful urban coastal protected area. The Doha East / West Desalination & Power Plants can be seen on the horizon in the center.
14 February

Plastic litter is a huge problem in Kuwait
Seashore at Al-Sulaibikhat,14 February

Perimeter wall and watch tower of Camp Doha, formerly the main US base in Kuwait
(which played a central role in the 2003 invasion of Iraq)
14 February

Perimeter wall and watch tower of Camp Doha, formerly the main US base in Kuwait
(which played a central role in the 2003 invasion of Iraq)
14 February

Ioanna with Andreas' Hummer outside the perimeter wall of Camp Doha, with the smoke stacks of the Doha East / West Desalination & Power Plants.
14 February

The brine outfall of the Doha East / West Desalination & Power Plants has the flow rate of a small river! The warm and hypersaline brine, leftover from seawater desalination, impacts the marine environment - which is the subject of our KFAS research project, led by Dhia Al-Bader.
14 February

The brine outfall of the Doha East / West Desalination & Power Plants has the flow rate of a small river! The warm and hypersaline brine, leftover from seawater desalination, impacts the marine environment - which is the subject of our KFAS research project, led by Dhia Al-Bader.
14 February

Dhow shipyard, Doha
14 February

Dhow shipyard, Doha
14 February

View from Doha towards Kuwait City at sunset. The new Sheikh Jaber Al-Ahmad Al-Sabah Causeway can be seen on the left and in the center, it will be the longest bridge in the world.
14 February

On one such excursion on 15 February, Andreas drove us to Al-Jahra and from there to the northwestern desert of Kuwait, to the Camel Hills (an inofficial name given to the area by Andreas and his expat friends). On the way, we passed the American bases of Camp Virginia and Camp Buehring. The intense rain this winter meant that there were countless flowers blooming in the desert - which almost looked like a green meadow! The abundant vegetation also constituted a feast for the many camels, who, even though they belong to Bedouins, have a semi-wild life. The Camel Hills offered some spectacular scenery and, again, many wildflowers and some other interesting wildlife (such as a colony of harvester ants). We were reminded of the troubled recent past when we came across earth berms erected as fortifications, assault rifle bullets in the sand and an abandoned lookout tower. In the afternoon, we had a very friendly encounter with Bedouins, who shared some fresh camel milk with us and who let Ioanna ride on one of their camels. We also came across a ghost town of plywood houses - as Andreas explained, they are a training ground of US forces for practicing urban warfare. From the distance, we saw a convoy of American flatbed trucks which are used for transporting tanks and other heavy equipment. We then came across several oil wells, active and inactive, and related installations - pipelines and oil lakes of about 100-200 sq m surface, which have the purpose of releasing potential overpressure from the system.

Leaving Kuwait City for a day excursion to the desert
15 February

Jaber al-Ahmad International Stadium
15 February

During the colder season, especially around the National Holiday at the end of February, many Kuwaitis live the tradition of their ancestors, leaving their homes in the city for a few days or weeks of camping in the desert.
Near Jahra, west of Kuwait City, 15 February

On the way to the desert!
15 February

On the way to the desert!
15 February

On the way to the desert!
15 February

Encounter in the desert
15 February

Encounter in the desert
15 February

Encounter in the desert
15 February

Encounter in the desert: Akira is very popular!
15 February

Road side near Camp Virginia
15 February

"Welcome to Camp Virginia", one of the US bases in the desert
15 February

Stray dogs near Camp Virginia
15 February

Bedouin camp near Camp Virginia
15 February

After the abundant rainfall this winter, the desert is quite green!
The lines of plants designate the shore of the poddles that existed here recently.
15 February

Road to Camp Buehring
15 February

Watch tower near Camp Buehring
15 February

Beetles in the desert near Camp Buehring
15 February

Beetles in the desert near Camp Buehring
15 February

Camel Hills
15 February

Camel Hills
15 February

Camel Hills
15 February

Camel Hills
15 February

Camel Hills
15 February

Camel Hills
15 February

Lookout post, Camel Hills
15 February

View from the lookout post pictured before, Camel Hills
15 February

Camel Hills
15 February

Camel Hills
15 February

Camel Hills
15 February

Andreas' faithful Hummer
Camel Hills
15 February

Camel Hills
15 February

Camel Hills
15 February

Andreas then discovered a colony of ants! Camel Hills,
15 February

Ant colony, Camel Hills
15 Feb

Ant colony, Camel Hills
15 Feb

Ant colony, Camel Hills
15 Feb

Bitter apple (Citrullus colocynthis, with many common names including colocynth, bitter cucumber, desert gourd, egusi, vine of Sodom, or wild gourd, is a viny plant native to the Middle Eastern and North African deserts.
Camel Hills, 15 February

Fruit of a colocynth, with a bullet cartridge of an assault rifle for size comparison. This area had abundant military litter.
15 February

Unfortunately, plastic litter is ubiquitous in the desert
15 February

Inactive oil well, Camel Hi
15 February

Apart from the Camel Hills and Mutla Ridge, Kuwait is mostly flat desert.
Somewhere in NW Kuwait near the Iraqi border, 15 February

Another highlight then was a meeting with 2 Bedouins and their camels.
15 February

The Bedouins were very hospitable and let Ioanna ride one of their camels.
15 February

Camel offspring
15 February

They then milked one of their camels and presented us with a bottle of camel milk!
15 February

Tasty fresh camel milk, directly at the source!
15 February

Convoy of US military flatbed trucks, led by a Cougar H
15 February

Training facility of the US military in the desert
15 February

Training facility of the US military in the desert
15 February

Training facility of the US military in the desert
15 February

Dried up oil lake, a safety feature to discard over pressure associated with many oil wells in Kuwait.
15 February

Pipeline marker in the desert
15 February

Oil well
15 February

Back in the hotel: A bottle of camel milk, present from the Bedouins whom we met in the desert today (together with my little present for the community of British expats in Kuwait, which, as I was told, is strongly anti-BREXIT).
15 February

We had a moving to the Al-Qurain Martyrs' Museum, which was the house of the resistance cell which was tragically discovered and destroyed by the Iraqis 4 days before the arrival of the Americans and Allies in February 1991.

Al-Qurain. An Iraqi tank of this model (T-55) shelled the building.
16 February

Al-Qurain. House of the resistance cell, which was tragically discovered and destroyed by the Iraqis 4 days before the arrival of the Americans and Allies in February 1991.
16 February

Al-Qurain. House of the resistance cell, which was tragically discovered and destroyed by the Iraqis 4 days before the arrival of the Americans and Allies in February 1991.
16 February

Al-Qurain. House of the resistance cell, which was tragically discovered and destroyed by the Iraqis 4 days before the arrival of the Americans and Allies in February 1991.
16 February

Al-Qurain. House of the resistance cell, which was tragically discovered and destroyed by the Iraqis 4 days before the arrival of the Americans and Allies in February 1991.
16 February

Al-Qurain. House of the resistance cell, which was tragically discovered and destroyed by the Iraqis 4 days before the arrival of the Americans and Allies in February 1991.
16 February

Saddam Hussein ordered the wanton destruction of oil-related facilities, in order to halt the Allied advance. This included opening the tanker loading facilities at Mina Al-Ahmadi, causing the worst oil spill in human history...

...and the lighting of numerous oil wells in the Burgan Oil Field (the world's 2nd largest).
Al-Qurain, 16 February

Visit to the Al-Qurain Martyrs Museum, Kuwait City. The house in the background was the hideout of a Kuwaiti resistance cell during the Iraqi occupation in 1990-91. Tragically, they were discovered and most of them were killed by the Iraqi forces in the ensuing battle - only 4 days before the liberation of Kuwait by the Americans and Allies in February 1991.
16 February

Visit to the Al-Qurain Martyrs Museum, Kuwait City.
16 February

Our next stop: The Kuwait Scientific Center, Salmiya
16 February

 

Our next stop: The Kuwait Scientific Center, Salmiya
16 February

Kuwait Scientific Center, Salmiya
16 February

Γλυκούλια ζωάκια: Desert hedgehogs in the Kuwait Scientific Center
16 February

Γλυκούλια ζωάκια: Desert hedgehog in the Kuwait Scientific Center
16 February

Kuwait Scientific Center, Salmiya
16 February

Kuwait Scientific Center, Salmiya
16 February

Kuwait Scientific Center, Salmiya
16 February

   

Kuwait Scientific Center, Salmiya
16 February

African Penguins, Kuwait Scientific Center, Salmiya
16 February

Note that one of the penguin ladies is named "Moza" - a reverence to the wife of the Emir of Qatar!
Kuwait Scientific Center, Salmiya
16 February

Kuwait Scientific Center, Salmiya
16 February

REUSE, an excellent exhibition for environmental education in the Kuwait Scientific Center, focusing on the country's plastic garbage crisis and other environmental issues
16 February

The historic ships exhibition of the Kuwait Scientific Center
16 February — at Aquarium - The scientific Centre.

The historic ships exhibition of the Kuwait Scientific Center
16 February

The historic ships exhibition of the Kuwait Scientific Center
16 February

The historic ships exhibition of the Kuwait Scientific Center
16 February

The historic ships exhibition of the Kuwait Scientific Center
16 February

View from the Kuwait Scientific Center to nearby highrises
16 February

View from the Kuwait Scientific Center along the shore towards the Kuwait Towers
16 February

Downtown Kuwait City
16 February

Downtown Kuwait City
16 February

Downtown Kuwait City
16 February

Kuwait National Museum
16 February

The Ikaros Stone with Greek writing from Failaka Island
Kuwait National Museum
16 February

Stone sculptures from the Greek temple on Failaka Island
Kuwait National Museum
16 February

Greek coins showing Alexander the Great from Failaka Island
Kuwait National Museum
16 February

Folio from an Indian holy Qu'ran, written neat naskh script, India, 11AH.
Kuwait National Museum
16 February

Indian holy Qu'ran, written by Ali Baqer to Janab Badshah Bakeen. Written in neat naskh script, India, 1249 AH.
Kuwait National Museum
16 February

View from outside the Kuwait National Museum towards to the Liberation Tower,
16 February

Al Sadu House, Kuwait City
16 February

Al Sadu House, Kuwait City
16 February

Historic house belonging to Dhia Al-Bader's family, Kuwait City. In fact, it was built by Yousif Al-Bader, Dhia's great great great grandfather! This is now the oldest building in Kuwait City.
16 February

Mubarakiya, Kuwait City
16 February

Mubarakiya, Kuwait City
16 February

Visiting the soukh, Mubarakiya, Kuwait City
16 February

Visiting the soukh, Mubarakiya, Kuwait City
16 February

Visiting the soukh, Mubarakiya, Kuwait City
16 February

Visiting the soukh, Mubarakiya, Kuwait City
16 February

Visiting the soukh, Mubarakiya, Kuwait City
16 February

Visiting the soukh, Mubarakiya, Kuwait City
16 February

Visiting the soukh, Mubarakiya, Kuwait City
16 February

Visiting the soukh, Mubarakiya, Kuwait City
16 February

Visiting the soukh, Mubarakiya, Kuwait City. The slogan "Free Kuwait" commemorates the liberation in 1991.
16 February

Mahboula was a good base for our activities. We greatly enjoyed the hotel with its very authentic Kuwaiti food. The latter is very different from other types of Arabic food which are known in the western World (mostly Lebanese and Moroccan). Reflecting ancient maritime links with the Indian Ocean, with its stews and spices it is indeed more reminiscent of Indian food. We explored the nearby shore in Fintas, close to the impressive Marine Science Center of Kuwait University.

Beach in Fintas, SE of Kuwait City
17 February

The brown alga Iyengaria (a poorly known genus typical of the northern Indian Ocean)
in the sublittoral off Fintas, SE of Kuwait City
17 February

The brown alga Padina in the sublittoral off Fintas, SE of Kuwait City
17 February

Rush hour traffic in Mahboula, on the way to the Bait Al-Othman Museum
17 February

The highlight of the day - in fact, one of the most memorable moments of the whole trip - was when, after 28 years, Hendrik's painting showing Saddam Hussein opening and torching Kuwait's oil wells has found a permanent home for public display in the Bait Al-Othman Museum in Hawally, Kuwait City. He had painted this in February 1991 in his high school art class at the Geschwister-Scholl-Gymnasium when he and his classmates were asked by the teacher to put their feelings about the dramatic events in the Gulf into art.

Donation of Hendrik's painting to the Bait Al-Othman Museum in Hawally, Kuwait City
17 February

The painting showing Saddam Hussein torching Kuwait's oil wells and causing the biggest oil spill in human history

Equipment of a pearl diver, Bait Al-Othman Museum in Hawally, Kuwait City
17 February

Arabian coffee pots, Bait Al-Othman Museum, Hawally, Kuwait City
17 February

Reception at Bait Al-Othman Museum following the donation of Hendrik's painting
17 February

Leaving the Bait Al-Othman Museum for dinner, following the donation of Hendrik's painting
17 February

Dinner in Salmiya upon the invitation of Khaled and Hanan
17 February

A very memorable excursion took us to Failaka. Thanks to Amal's cousin who owns a very nice boat, we were independent. We set off from Souq Sharq, next to the Sharq Fish Market. Within a bit less than an hour, we reached the harbour of Failaka. The name is derived from the Greek word "Φυλάκιο" = "outpost", testimony to its past as a Greek colony founded in the context of Alexander the Great's expedition. With Amal's support, I had visited Failaka before in April 2016. Then, the local police department on the island had provided us with a vehicle and driver (since Amal and her relative, Prof. Hasan Al-Ashkanani, had worked as archaeologists on Failaka) and subsequently invited us for a traditional Kuwaiti lunch in the police station. I was very touched when several of the police officers still remembered me (which also indicated how few foreigners come to Failaka). On this occasion, Amal managed to borrow a vehicle from a friend, which enabled us to visit the ruins of the Greek and Dilmun-era town on Failaka. Impressive! A Greek colony, even with a small temple, on a hill overlooking the Arabian Gulf. Failaka was as lush green as the mainland, or even more. Seeing a herd of white camels having a feast on a beautiful green, wet meadow full of blue irises, which otherwise would be desert, was quite a sight. We then drove on to the former resort consisting of abandoned chalets, where we sampled the intertidal. A bit further, we came across a parking site of abandoned Iraqi hardware - tanks, artillery pieces and military vehicles. Failaka saw a brief, fierce battle during the Iraqi invasion in August 1990. During the liberation of Kuwait, the Iraqi occupation forces surrendered to the Americans thanks to effective psy-war operations of the latter. Still, the devastation of the Iraqi invasion is all to obvious in Failaka - many buildings are shelled and some have collapsed, and many others are riddled with bullet holes.  We finally came to a very interesting rocky shore with intertidal and numerous tidal pools, and a nearby tidal lagoon, on the north coast (from where the Subiya Desalination and Power Plant is visible), enabling very rich collections. We left Failaka under a full moon - an unforgettable sight - with a cormorant visibly enjoying itself.

Sharq Marina, Kuwait City, 18 February

Sharq Marina, Kuwait City, 18 February

Leaving Sharq Marina for Failaka Island
18 February

Leaving Sharq Marina for Failaka Island
18 February

Leaving Sharq Marina for Failaka Island
18 February

Arrival in the harbor of Failaka
18 February

Arrival in the harbor of Failaka
18 February

Arrival in the harbor of Failaka
18 February

Arrival in the harbor of Failaka
18 February

Police HQ, Failaka Island
18 February

Police HQ, Failaka Island
18 February

Summer house of a former Emir on a hill likely covering an archaeological site.
Failaka, 18 February

Summer house of a former Emir on a hill likely covering an archaeological site.
Failaka, 18 February

Greek temple, Failaka
18 February

Greek temple, Failaka
18 February

Greek temple, Failaka
18 February

Greek ruins, Failaka
18 February

The devastation caused by the Iraqi invasion in 1990 is still very obvious in Failaka - pictured here: The former bank.
18 February

White camels having a feast on a beautiful green, wet meadow full of blue irises,
which otherwise would be desert: quite a sight!
Failaka, 18 February

White camels having a feast on a beautiful green, wet meadow full of blue irises,
which otherwise would be desert: quite a sight!
Failaka, 18 February

Wet meadow full of blue irises,
Failaka, 18 February

Wet meadow full of blue irises,
Failaka, 18 February

Wet meadow full of blue irises,
Failaka, 18 February

Imitated Greek columns at the entrance to the former, 1980s resort on Failaka's south shore.
18 February

South shore of Failaka - one of our two sampling sites.
18 February

South shore of Failaka - one of our two sampling sites.
18 February

Our team on the south shore of Failaka - one of our two sampling sites.
18 February

With love from Saddam Hussein: Discarded Iraqi military hardware, Failaka
18 February

Discarded Iraqi military hardware, Failaka
18 February

Discarded Iraqi military hardware, Failaka
18 February

Salsola sp. on north shore of Failaka, our 2nd sampling site
18 February

Our 2nd sampling site on the north shore of Failaka,
18 February

Our 2nd sampling site on the north shore of Failaka,
18 February

Our 2nd sampling site on the north shore of Failaka,
18 February

Our 2nd sampling site on the north shore of Failaka - with the smoke stacks of the Subiya Power & Desalination Plant in the distance.
18 February

Having a break during field work at our 2nd sampling site on the north shore of Failaka,
18 February

I was the only one to go snorkelling on the shore of Failaka. Due to the proximity of the Shatt Al-Arab, the water here is more silty than at the other sites in Kuwait that we had visited, and the algal flora mostly consisted of filamentous green seaweeds. Failaka, 18 February

Filamentous green seaweeds, off Failaka, 18 February

Sunset on the north shore of Failaka, 18 February

Tidal pool on the north shore of Failaka, 18 February

Tidal pools on the north shore of Failaka, 18 February

Akira trying to rescue the moon from the water
Failaka Island

Tidal pool on the north shore of Failaka, 18 February

Full moon above Failaka, 18 February

Full moon above Failaka, 18 February

Skull of a pilot whale which I found on the north shore of Failaka (and subsequently donated to the collection of the Kuwait University Marine Lab in Fintas)
18 February

Memories of 1990-1991. After the Battle of Failaka in August 1990 and subsequent occupation,
many of the buildings were never repaired or rebuilt.

 

Cormorant and moonlight reflecting on the waves, Failaka
18 February

Cormorant and moonlight reflecting on the waves, Failaka
18 February

Moonlight reflecting on the waves, Failaka
18 February

Departure from Failaka under a full moon, 18 February

Departure from Failaka under a full moon, 18 February

Return to Kuwait City by night, 18 February

Return to Kuwait City by night, 18 February

Return to Sharq Marina, Kuwait City, by night, 18 February

Return to Sharq Marina, Kuwait City, by night, 18 February

The next day, we were hoping to go on another expedition with the friendly crew of the Coast Guard vessel Dastoor, diving around some of the smaller islands in the Gulf, but the weather turned out to be too poor. Instead, we went to work in the Kuwait University Marine Lab in Fintas, followed by another visit to the Dower Power & Desalination Plants.

The Kuwait Coast Guard's main base in Fintas. Here, we were about to embark on the Kuwait Coast Guard vessel Dastoor for another day of diving surveys around Kuwait's small islands in the Arabian Gulf, but the trip had to be cancelled due to poor weather. We will try again on the 21st. 19 February

Instead, we went to work in the beautiful Kuwait University Marine Lab which is literally next door to the Sabah Al-Ahmad Coast Guard Base in Fintas.
19 February

Kuwait University Marine Lab, Fintas,
19 February

Kuwait University Marine Lab, Fintas,
19 February

Kuwait University Marine Lab, Fintas,
19 February

Yes, recycling has started here!
Kuwait University Marine Lab, Fintas,
19 February

Yes, recycling has started here!
Kuwait University Marine Lab, Fintas,
19 February

Kuwait City is totally clogged up with traffic!
19 February

Kuwait City is totally clogged up with traffic!
19 February

Doha Power & Desalination Plants,
19 February

 

Doha Power & Desalination Plants,
19 February

Dhia's car parked outside Camp Doha and the Doha Power & Desalination Plants,
19 February

Doha Power & Desalination Plants,
19 February

Brine outfall of the Doha Power & Desalination Plants,
19 February

Brine outfall of the Doha Power & Desalination Plants,
19 February

Doha Power & Desalination Plants,
19 February

Doha Power & Desalination Plants,
19 February

View from Doha towards the new causeway and Kuwait City,
19 February

 

Evening traffic in Mahboula - on the way to Andreas' birthday dinner
20 February

Memorable days followed one another. The next day, Dhia invited our whole team for a festive breakfast to the restaurant in the sphere of one of the Kuwait Towers, on the occasion of the birthdays of Amal and Akira!

Kuwait Towers, 20 February

Kuwait Towers, 20 February

View from the Kuwait Towers, 20 February

Birthday breakfast, Kuwait Towers, 20 February

View from the Kuwait Towers over the Dasman Palace complex, 20 February

View from the Kuwait Towers over the Dasman Palace complex, 20 February

View from the Kuwait Towers over the Dasman Palace complex and the more recent high rise buildings of Kuwait City including the world's first twisted skyscraper,
20 February

View from the Kuwait Towers along Arabian Gulf Street towards Salmiya,
20 February

View from the Kuwait Towers along Arabian Gulf Street towards Salmiya,
20 February

View from the Kuwait Towers along Arabian Gulf Street towards Sharq,
20 February

Happy Birthday, Amal!
Kuwait Towers, 20 February

Happy Birthday, Akira!
Kuwait Towers, 20 February

 One of the rare photos showing me (by Hanan Al-Adilah). We had a great time!
20 February

Kuwait Towers, 20 February

Kuwait Towers, 20 February

Kuwait Towers, 20 February

Driving down Arabian Gulf Street from the Kuwait Towers to the marine lab in Fintas
20 February

Selfie with Hanan in her car
20 February

Back to the Marine Lab in Fintas, 20 February

Kuwait University Marine Lab in Fintas, 20 February

On 21 February, we again had the support of the coast guard who gave us again the patrol boat Dastoor and a diving support speed boat for surveying the seabed near Kubbar Island. Kubbar has some more coral reefs, even though they seemed to be in less good shape than at Qarooh and Umm Al-Maradim. Ioanna and I managed to do the deepest dive of the entire trip at Kubbar - to 35.7 m - where we collected more substratum samples for Akira's germling emergence work. The dive was technically very challenging - strong current and very poor visibility. Beneath 20 m it was completely dark! This dive dramatically illustrated the hydrology of the Arabian Gulf - naturally eutrophic and high in silt / sediment, very different from the Red Sea, open Indian Ocean or Mediterranean. While we were in the water, Dhia, Akira and Hendrik explored Kubbar on foot and cleaned the beaches of plastic litter. Like on Failaka, the lush green vegetation on Kubbar was exceptional! Special thanks to Cptn. Mubarak of the Kuwait Coast Guard! I had to remember that Kubbar, after Qaruh a few days earlier, was among the first parts of Kuwait liberated by US forces during Operation Desert Storm in 1991.

Leaving the harbor of the Sabah Al-Ahmad Coast Guard Base in Fintas, 21 February

En route to Kubbar Island - a floating oil loading structure for supertankers
21 February

Supertanker parked in the Gulf off Fintas, 21 February

First sight of Kubbar Island, 21 February

Badge of the Kuwait Coast Guard Divers who supported us today.
21 February

Two members of the Kuwait Coast Guard Divers who supported us today.
21 February

Kubbar Island, 21 February

Kubbar Island, 21 February

Kubbar Island, 21 February

Kubbar Island, 21 February

Kubbar Island, 21 February

Kubbar Island, 21 February

Dead coral on the beach, Kubbar Island, 21 February

Bug, Kubbar Island, 21 February

Coast Guard Interceptor boat of the dive unit on the shore of Kubbar, 21 February

Rendez-vous between the dive unit's interceptor boat and the Dastoor in the Gulf off Kubbar for transferring crew,
21 February

Rendez-vous between the dive unit's interceptor boat and the Dastoor in the Gulf off Kubbar for transferring crew, 21 February

Ioanna at work at 35.8 m off Kubbar. Unlike the Mediterranean or the Red Sea, the Arabian Gulf is very silty and plankton-rich, resulting in poor visibility. Together with often high currents and strong seasonal temperature extremes, this can result in a challenging environment for divers.
21 February

Ioanna at work at 35.8 m off Kubbar. Unlike the Mediterranean or the Red Sea, the Arabian Gulf is very silty and plankton-rich, resulting in poor visibility. Together with often high currents and strong seasonal temperature extremes, this can result in a challenging environment for divers.
21 February

First view after re-surfacing from our dive: we signalled to the crew on the interceptor boat to come and pick us up from the water. 21 February

After our dive to 35.8 m with one of the samples collected.
It will be interesting to see whether any seaweeds will grow out of these!
21 February

Kubbar Island, 21 February

Kubbar Island, 21 February

Kubbar Island, 21 February

Kubbar Island, 21 February

Kubbar Island, 21 February

View from our hotel in Mahboula,
22 February

One evening, Hanan's family invited us to their coastal home in Bnaider, on the coast between Ahmadi and Khiran, for a traditional evening and dinner party in a tent. Thank you for your great hospitality!

Evening with Hanan's family in Bnaider, between Ahmadi and Khiran on the coast
22 February

Evening with Hanan's family in Bnaider, between Ahmadi and Khiran on the coast
22 February

Evening with Hanan's family in Bnaider, between Ahmadi and Khiran on the coast
22 February

Tea and Arabian coffee - evening with Hanan's family in Bnaider, between Ahmadi and Khiran on the coast
22 February

Even the police joined the party!
Evening with Hanan's family in Bnaider, between Ahmadi and Khiran on the coast
22 February

Evening with Hanan's family in Bnaider, between Ahmadi and Khiran on the coast
22 February

Evening with Hanan's family in Bnaider, between Ahmadi and Khiran on the coast
22 February

Dune vehicle,
Evening with Hanan's family in Bnaider, between Ahmadi and Khiran on the coast
22 February

Dune vehicle,
Evening with Hanan's family in Bnaider, between Ahmadi and Khiran on the coast
22 February

A final highlight was a day excursion on 23 February with Andreas and his hummer to the north of Kuwait - Mutla Ridge, Subiya, the coast opposite Bubiyan Island, towards and then westwards along the Iraqi border to Abdaly, and then back Kuwait City. Leaving Kuwait City in the morning, our first stop was Mutla Ridge - with 1,004 feet ( 306 metres) altitude, this is the highest point in Kuwait. The area had seen fighting in the last days of February 1991, testimony of which were numerous pieces of shrapnel, bullets etc. stuck in the rocks which Andreas showed us during our brief hike. In terms of topography and together with the Camel Hills / Udairi area in NW Kuwait, this is one of the most interesting and scenic places in Kuwait with canyons, mesas and buttes.

Mutla Ridge, 23 February

Mutla Ridge, 23 February

Mutla Ridge, 23 February

Mutla Ridge, 23 February

Mutla Ridge, 23 February

Mutla Ridge, 23 February

Mutla Ridge, 23 February

Mutla Ridge, 23 February

Mutla Ridge, 23 February

Mutla Ridge, 23 February

Mutla Ridge, 23 February

Camping Kuwaitis just south of Mutla Ridge, 23 February

Camping Kuwaitis just south of Mutla Ridge, 23 February

Oil field at Subiya, 23 February

Oil field at Subiya, 23 February

Salt flat at Subiya, 23 February

Salt flat at Subiya, 23 February

Salt flat at Subiya, 23 February

Salt flat at Subiya, 23 February

Salt lake at Subiya - Akira collected some samples here.
23 February

An interesting site then was a supposedly strictly off-limits, fenced-off structure. Since the gate in the fence was wide open, we took this as an invitation to check it out. It turned out to be an oil lake of the same design that we had previously seen in the Udairi area - a catchment area for oil spilled out of wells during episodes of overpressure. The oil collected in it was still liquid.

Outside an oil lake in Subiya, 23 February

Oil lake in Subiya, 23 February

Ioanna at the oil lake in Subiya
23 February

Oil lake in Subiya - the splash is from a rock thrown in by a team member. It nicely illustrated the viscosity of the oil. 
23 February

The next stop was the head of the new bridge crossing the channel to Bubiyan Island. I had previously visited this area in April 2016 with Dhia. This is one of the places on the Kuwaiti coastline which has some mangrove trees (planted for coastal protection and creating wildlife habitat). But, given the proximity to Iraq and Iran, it is also a very sensitive area which is the reason why the Kuwaiti army has a camp at the ramp of the bridge. To be correct, I wanted to be sure to have proper authorization to sample there - the obvious place was to ask in the military camp. So I walked straight into it! The Kuwait Army soldiers guarding the access to the Bubiyan Bridge (Bubiyan itself is still closed) and the area were most hospitable and guided us into this restricted area for surveying the seashore with the mangrove trees and seaweeds growing there – and afterwards they invited us for lunch, Arabian coffee and shisha into their camp and didn’t want to let us go anymore. Wonderful moments, they were clearly delighted about having unexpected visitors. Shukran, Cptn. Mansour! I'll be back!

Their colleagues further north, in the last Army post before the Iraqi border, were more nervous and signalled us to turn back which we did. That area, just south of the Iraqi border and the port of Umm Qasr beyond it, has the best salt marshes and coastal wetlands that I have seen in Kuwait. I just wish that at least some of this will be preserved despite the pharaonic construction projects (so far only freeways, but obviously as a prelude to massive urbanization) that have started also in that area.

Orobanche sp., a root parasite, in the desert near Bubiyan Bridge.
23 February

Orobanche sp., a root parasite, in the desert near Bubiyan Bridge.
23 February

Orobanche sp., a root parasite, in the desert near Bubiyan Bridge.
23 February

Bubiyan Bridge, 23 February

Mangrove trees at Bubiyan Bridge, 23 February

Mangrove trees at Bubiyan Bridge, 23 February

After surveying the marine vegetation of the area: Shisha, Arabian coffee, tea and lunch with the soldiers.
23 February

After surveying the marine vegetation of the area: Shisha, Arabian coffee, tea and lunch with the soldiers.
23 February

After surveying the marine vegetation of the area: Shisha, Arabian coffee, tea and lunch with the soldiers.
23 February

After surveying the marine vegetation of the area: Shisha, Arabian coffee, tea and lunch with the soldiers.
23 February

After surveying the marine vegetation of the area: Shisha, Arabian coffee, tea and lunch with the soldiers.
23 February

After surveying the marine vegetation of the area: Shisha, Arabian coffee, tea and lunch with the soldiers.
23 February

After surveying the marine vegetation of the area: Shisha, Arabian coffee, tea and lunch with the soldiers.
23 February

The gate of the Kuwait Army camp at Bubiyan Bridge. The sign reads "Mubarak Joint Task Force HQ".
23 February

A few days later, Cptn. Mansour (commander of the camp) sent me this greeting via WhatsApp.
I really would like to visit him again.
23 February

Ship destroyed by Iraqi invasion forces in 1990-1991.
23 February

Mosque in the desert, between Bubiyan Bridge and the Iraqi border,
23 February

Andreas and Hendrik trying to figure out where to drive next using their GPS devices.
On the coast near the Iraqi border, 23 February

The military post on the coast at the Iraqi border.
The soldier on guard here at the entrance was less welcoming and made us understand to get lost.
23 February

Tidal creek and desert at the Iraqi border, 23 February.
This were the most pristine salt marsh areas that we got to see during the entire trip.

Tidal creek and desert at the Iraqi border, 23 February.
This were the most pristine salt marsh areas that we got to see during the entire trip.

Andreas' Hummer, tidal creek and desert at the Iraqi border,
23 February

Tidal creek and desert at the Iraqi border, 23 February.
This were the most pristine salt marsh areas that we got to see during the entire trip.

Tidal creek and desert at the Iraqi border, 23 February.
This were the most pristine salt marsh areas that we got to see during the entire trip.

Tidal creek and desert at the Iraqi border, 23 February.
This were the most pristine salt marsh areas that we got to see during the entire trip.

Tidal creek and desert at the Iraqi border, 23 February.
This were the most pristine salt marsh areas that we got to see during the entire trip.

Cricket in the desert at the Iraqi border,
23 February

Tidal creek and desert at the Iraqi border, 23 February.
This were the most pristine salt marsh areas that we got to see during the entire trip.

Tidal creek and salt marsh at the Iraqi border, 23 February.
This were the most pristine salt marsh areas that we got to see during the entire trip.

Tidal creek and desert at the Iraqi border, with Andreas' Hummer and 3 team members walking around,
23 February

Tidal creek and desert at the Iraqi border, 23 February.
This were the most pristine salt marsh areas that we got to see during the entire trip.

The border crossing to Iraq, just south of the port of Umm Qasr. At present, this crossing remains closed. The only operational crossing between Iraq and Kuwait is further west, at Abdaly-Safwan.
23 February

The Iraqi port of Umm Qasr is so close that the cranes and vessels there are clearly visible across the flat desert from Kuwait, with only a fence in between. This is Iraq's only functional sea port.
23 February

Oil field in the desert near Abdaly,
23 February

Date palm plantation near Abdaly. The farms here are irrigated with recycled water from Kuwait City.
23 February

Oil field in the desert near Abdaly,
23 February

Oil drilling equipment on a truck near Abdaly,
23 February

Oil field near Abdaly in the north of Kuwait,
23 February

Highway 80 from Kuwait City and Abdaly to the Iraqi border and on to Basrah. German viewers of this image will find a certain humor in seeing the truck on the right - it obviously belonged to a well-known German supermarket chain, EDEKA, before finding a new 2nd hand life and ferrying stuff from Kuwait to Iraq.
23 February

Highway 80 from Kuwait City and Abdaly to the Iraqi border and on to Basrah.
23 February

Power lines at Hwy 80 from Abdaly to Kuwait City,
23 February

Kuwait University Marine Lab, Fintas, 24 February

Kuwait University Marine Lab, Fintas, 24 February

Kuwait University Marine Lab and, behind the harbor, the Sabah Al-Ahmad Coast Guard Base, Fintas, 24 February

Kuwait University Marine Lab, Fintas, 24 February

Our team members at work! Kuwait University Marine Lab, Fintas, 24 February

Residential housing in Mahboula, 24 February

Avenues Mall - until recently, this was the biggest shopping mall in the Gulf Region.
24 February

Avenues Mall - until recently, this was the biggest shopping mall in the Gulf Region.
24 February

Avenues Mall - until recently, this was the biggest shopping mall in the Gulf Region.
24 February

Avenues Mall - until recently, this was the biggest shopping mall in the Gulf Region.
24 February

Avenues Mall - until recently, this was the biggest shopping mall in the Gulf Region.
24 February

Yes, there is beer in Kuwait! It's even the authentic Budweiser - but, of course, without alcohol.
Avenues Mall, 24 February

Turkish dinner of our team, Avenues Mall, 24 February

Avenues Mall, 24 February

Our final day started with Hanan taking us to Fahaheel, with a beautiful new marina, cultural and leisure area on the coast.

Fahaheel, 25 February

Fahaheel, 25 February. This is just north of Kuwait's oil port, Mina Al-Ahmadi, part of which is visible on the horizon.

Fahaheel, 25 February

Fahaheel, 25 February

View from Fahaheel to Mina Al-Ahmadi, 25 February

Fahaheel, 25 February

Fahaheel, 25 February

In the afternoon, Amal took us to the National Day celebrations which had started that day (and which were about to last 2 more days). Driving from Mahboula via Fintas to Salmiya and then on Arabian Gulf Street to Kuwait City, the roadside was lined with crowds of people partying. Children and adults alike had fun in water-bombing and spraying passing cars. Dhia told me afterwards that she also very much enjoys such fun and that next year, I would be her target!

Arabian coffee on the street, National Day celebration, Salmiya,
25 February.

National Day celebration, Salmiya,
25 February.

National Day celebration, Salmiya,
25 February.

National Day celebration, Salmiya,
25 February.

National Day celebration, Salmiya,
25 February.

National Day celebration, Salmiya,
25 February.

National Day celebration, Salmiya,
25 February.

Splash! National Day celebration, Salmiya,
25 February.

National Day celebration, Salmiya,
25 February.

National Day celebration, Salmiya,
25 February.

Splash! National Day celebration, Salmiya,
25 February.

National Day celebration, Salmiya,
25 February.

National Day celebration, Salmiya,
25 February.

National Day celebration, Salmiya,
25 February.

After a Persian dinner, it was time to say farewell! After the last bit of packing and saying farewell, Akira and I headed to the airport, while Ioanna was to fly home one day later (and Hendrik had already left late on the 23nd).

Leaving KWI in the early hours of 26 February

Landing for stopover in AMS Amsterdam-Schiphol, 26 February

Leaving AMS for the final leg to ABZ Aberdeen, 26 February

A very big THANK YOU to our Kuwaiti friends for their outstanding hospitality - to Dhia Al-Bader and her husband Tareq, to Hanan Al-Adilah and her family and husband, and to Amal Hasan and her family. And of course, special thanks to Andreas for being such a good guide, host, and logistics support for most of our explorations around the coast and islands of Kuwait!





PS. The Marler Zeitung, a newspaper in Marl, Germany, reported about our expedition to Kuwait:


http://mobil.marler-zeitung.de/staedte/marl/45770-Marl~/Wie-ueberleben-Pflanzen-Marler-forscht-im-salzigen-Meer-und-der-gruenen-Wueste;art996,2312395?fbclid=IwAR2x1Dppoya_VuPqJ2XrNBoqugFqzlxTchOnlhcduLHlynd1e3OQvHIc9Dk