Today we headed to
Fitzroy, a picturesque, historic settlement in East Falkland – which promised
an easily accessible shore for a dive. On the way, we were met by Sarah Lee in
her Landrover, who (together with her husband Simon) had already
enthusiastically contributed to the Painted Shrimp Expedition to Ascension
Island last summer. As we arrived in Fitzroy, Sarah suddenly asked us, ”is
there something wrong with your rear tire?” Indeed, it was hissing and
flattening dramatically fast… a pointed screw sticking right in it was the
cause!! This was a problem in progress, but we decided to leave its resolution
until after the diving.
Fitzroy is another
place in the Falklands drenched in history. It is named after Robert Fitzroy,
Captain of HMS Beagle during Charles Darwin’s epic voyage (which included 2
visits to the Falklands). On June 8, 1982,
Fitzroy was the site of the single largest loss of life for the British forces
when their supply ships RFA Sir Galahad and RFA Sir Tristram, loaded with
ammunitions, were bombed by the Argentine air force, killing 56. The shore
overlooking the cove which was to be our dive site has several memorials which
are often visited by veterans of these dramatic events.
Sarah and I readied
our dive kit and got into the water. After yesterday’s gale, visibility was
very poor. We had 2 rather shallow dives, totalling almost 1 hr, but we managed
to collect 24 species including what we think may be a new record of a
pathogenic brown alga on the kelp Lessonia
- and we got a number of reasonably good underwater photos, all close-up of
course. A particularly memorable moment
was when we surfaced beneath a cliff with a cormorant colony right above us at
the end of the 2nd dive. In summary, another great day of diving in
the Falklands’ cold waters! Sarah, you were great!
Then came the more
difficult issue – getting our car back on the road for getting back to Stanley…
None of the 4 of us had ever changed a tire before, and the jack included with
the vehicle turned out to be a useless toy. We were lucky to be in a
settlement - one most helpful inhabitant
came with a proper jack for farm vehicles, jacked up our Mitsubishi Pajero, and
we got the flattened tire off in less than 5 min. The car once crashed off the
jack before we got the spare tire on (never end up underneath a jacked up
vehicle…) – only to discover that the rental car agency had given us a vehicle
with a flat spare tire and a defect suspension of the rear axis…!!! “We also
have the technology to sort that out!” said that friendly Fitzroy resident and
took us to his utility shed where he had an inflator (he still showed us his
current construction project – a 7 kW wind turbine, which was to power and heat
his home, replacing electricity at £ 0.70 / kWh from the communal settlement
generator and lots of fuel oil). Unthinkable if we had been on one of the roads
we had been driving over the last week, somewhere in the middle of the Falkland
Camp (as the outback or countryside is called here), we might have spent a day
or a night waiting for help – most of the islands’ land surface outside Stanley
is extremely sparsely populated! We crept back to Stanley, to be met half-way
by 2 guys from the rental car agency.
Another very busy
afternoon and evening in the lab at SAERI followed, concluded by writing this
blog. We are planning another great dive with Sarah next weekend – Sunday.
Sarah and Frithjof in the water
Giant kelp Macrocystis at Fitzroy
Fitzroy Memorial
Our flat tire at Fitzroy
Fitzroy
Fitzroy
Fitzroy
Fitzroy
Falkland Island girl
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